Sunday, September 8, 2013
Dubrovnik to Trogir

Up at 8:00 a.m. to another gorgeous day, surprised not to see a cruise ship, but then one pulled in as I was making my coffee. Time to pack up and start heading back north. Our vacation is winding down. Just three nights left till we catch our flight. We've seen a lot. For breakfast we had leftover pizza. I'm not going to want pizza for a year after this.

Today we take the coastal road north to Trogir. We spent an hour or two in Trogir about a week ago, but this time we'll spend the night. I settled our bill with Vera for our four-night stay, and we checked out just after 10:30, happy to see much less traffic through the city today.

We followed the D8 north along the coast. Two days ago we took this road as far as the Peljesac Peninsula, and it's lovely again today. We aren't going to see all of Croatia's 3,600 miles of coastline, but we'll do what we can.

A few kilometers past the turnoff for the peninsula, we reached the border of Bosnia i Herzegovina. Croatia is interrrupted from itself by Bosnia i Herzegovina's 20 kilometers of coastline. You have to stop at both ends of the 20 kilometers for passport control by each country. It would be pretty tedious if you had to do this all the time. There's talk in Croatia of building a bridge to bypass BiH altogether, but in the meantime...

Anyway, we used this brief entry into Bosnia i Herzegovina as an opportunity to fill our tank with less expensive gas again, 2.45 convertible marks per liter, “only” $6.25 per gallon. The cheapest gas of the trip!

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Bothersome border crossing

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Neum, Bosnia i Herzegovina

We followed the scenic coast as far as Brela, then got on the A1 toll road to bypass the greater Split area, exiting at Prgomet and descending into Trogir from the northeast.

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Croatian coast

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Croatian coast and farmland

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Greater Trogir

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Trogir from above

Trogir is a small island, and Ciovo is a bigger island just beyond. They're connected to the mainland by bridges. Our soba is actually on Ciovo, just a short walk from the Old Town of Trogir. We arrived at Rooms Carija early in the afternoon. This is the nicest place we've stayed since Slovenia. The rooms are modern, with a fridge, hair dryer, and satellite TV. There's plenty of off-street parking and a private, shaded seating area outside. As an outstanding bonus, the owner speaks English and told us to help ourselves to free beer in his outdoor kitchen!

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Beer break at Rooms Carija, Trogir

After a while, we walked a block to the nearest beach and went swimming in the Adriatic, or at least we ducked our heads under. The word “beach” is used loosely in Croatia, meaning anywhere you can jump into and climb out of the sea, and most of the beaches we saw were rocky areas that have been concreted over to provide sunbathers with a surface on which to sprawl. People had their towels thrown down and were laying out on hot, hard concrete all up and down the coast.

We didn't stay at the beach long before returning to Rooms Carija for showers, where we discovered another awesome feature of our room: a Disco Shower Head that lights up when you use it. Too cool.

We had a short visit in Trogir earlier in our trip, but there was still a tall thing we hadn't yet climbed, so we walked across the bridge to the Old Town and went straight to Kamerlengo Fortress, at the far end of the harbor-front promenade. The fortress is the most castle-ly place we saw on the whole trip, including the actual castles. Superb views of the town and the sea. We were there for sunset. Very romantic.

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Kamerlengo Fortress

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Trogir from the fortress

At dinnertime, we walked around town checking out way too many menus before selecting Bistro-Jumbo. I don't know why we waste so much time picking a restaurant when there's hardly any difference between them. I felt a dire need for some protein, so I ordered rumpsteak, while Tom ordered lasagna. Tom's lasagna was great, but my steak was pretty mediocre. It was chewy, like something you'd get at Western Sizzlin, only way more expensive. Still, it was good to get a chunk of meat, and I felt energized afterward. At the end of the meal, they gave us each a shot of very potent plum schnapps. Yowza!

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Good place for a sword fight!

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Katedrala Svetog Lovre

Trogir's Old Town is a UNESCO world heritage site. I know this because there's a neon sign reading "UNESCO" on the city wall. Neon? Really? You don't think that takes anything away from the charm?

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UNESCO

Trogir is awesome at night. I thought the little town would be dead, but no way. There were still deserted little winding alleys to wander and get lost in, but the main square was filled with bars and tables and a stage with live music. The whole place turned into a club after dark! After a while, we went back to our soba and sat outside drinking beer. I heard music drifting over the water from Trogir till past midnight.

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Trogir at night



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