Saturday, March 13, 2021
Alpine, Texas to Terlingua area, Texas
Big Bend National Park Day 1
Highlights: Fossil Discovery Exhibit, Rio Grande Village Nature Trail, Tin Valley Retro Rentals
This morning we backtracked 30 miles through Marathon, stuffed our tank with gas, then turned south on US 385, entering Big Bend National Park another 40 miles later via its northern entrance.
Finally arrived!
Big Bend National Park takes its name from the large bend in the Rio Grande River that marks the park's southern boundary and forms the border between the US and Mexico.
Fossils of over 90 dinosaur species have been found at Big Bend. The Fossil Discovery Exhibit, near the park's northern entrance, features fossil replicas of fish, sharks, and dinosaurs, plus colorful artwork showing what the area looked like 100 million years ago when it was covered by the sea.
Fearsome face
Soaring pterosaur
Overlook above the Fossil Discovery Exhibit
Desert landscape, once covered by sea
Today we headed for the Rio Grande Village area, in the east side of the park. The Rio Grand Village Nature Trail is a short 1.3 miles, even with an add-on spur, but that was plenty since it was 105 degrees outside! We didn't expect such a temperature in March, but at least it was a dry heat...
Rio Grand Village Nature Trail
Unexpected wetland
Strawberry pitaya cactus
The trail was outstanding! Desert, wetland, river, cacti, and views across the border to the colorful Mexican town of Boquillas del Carmen. We took it very slow due to the heat, chugging water all the way, but it was worth it.
To the overlook
Desert, mountains, and the Rio Grande
Beautiful view
The border crossing to Boquillas is closed right now (Covid), but the enterprising citizens of this small town, who rely on tourist dollars from visitors to Big Bend, have somehow managed to leave some trinkets on the US side for sale on the honor system.
Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico
US-Mexico border
Trinkets for sale, no vendor in sight
After the hike, we blasted the a/c and drove another five miles east till the pavement ended, then turned back toward the western gateway of the park, over 50 miles away at the quirky little twin towns of Study Butte/Terlingua. From there, it was another 30 miles to our new accommodations.
Lodging: Tin Valley Retro Rentals, 45 minutes from anywhere, West Texas. From Terlingua, you drive north on TX 118 for 16 miles, then east on Terlingua Ranch Road for 12 miles until the pavement ends, then it's another mile and a half north on a dirt/rock road to the Tin Valley campground.
We're staying in a renovated 1973 Airstream called “Pancho Villa,” decorated in a kitschy Mexican cowboy theme. The former RV has a/c and heat, a fridge and microwave, and a private bathroom. Very cute and cozy and totally worth the long drive!
Pancho Villa at Tin Valley Retro Rentals
Our home for three nights
Cozy, cute, and comfortable
The wind was ridiculous this afternoon and evening, 25 mph with 40 mph gusts, but we managed to get the Coleman stove going and cooked up some pasta with marinara and diced beef for dinner.
Tom and Tigre
We'd timed our stay in dark-sky country to coincide with the new moon for optimal stargazing. The wind finally calmed down after dark, but there was too much dust in the air for the best star viewing.
Driving distance: 208 miles today, 1,775 so far. It's a long way to the middle of nowhere!
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