Saturday, September 19, 2020
Leesburg, VA to Bowie, MD


C&O Trail miles 35.5-0.00 (35.5 miles)
Highlights: Blockhouse Point, Great Falls, and Mile Zero

Arriving at the hotel yesterday, we signed up for a 9:00 a.m. shuttle back to White's Ferry. After a light breakfast downstairs, we loaded up and were off. It was a quick shuttle and ferry, and we were back on the trail on the Maryland side of the river by 9:40.

For the first four days and 149 miles of the C&O, we'd largely enjoyed our solitude. Today that ended. We knew riding into the D.C./Baltimore metro area on a summer Saturday wasn't ideal, but logistically, that's how it worked out. The weather was gorgeous, and people were out and about, Covid be damned! The final 15 miles were especially busy. Passing the pedestrians was like dodging squirrels.

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Seneca Aqueduct, constructed of red sandstone


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Riley's Lockhouse


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Trump National Golf Course, Sterling, Virginia


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Rocky place in the Potomac

I can't blame people for being out and about today, because the weather and the scenery were spectacular! It was a lovely ride past Seneca Aqueduct, along the calm canal water and cliffs at Blockhouse Point, past Pennyfield Lock, and on to the Great Falls of the Potomac.

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Still water at Blockhouse Point


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Lockhouse 22


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Tom inspects leaky Pennyfield Lock

At Great Falls Park, Tom and I took turns walking a boardwalk trail over the river to Olmsted Island and an overlook of the rapids, while the other of us kept an eye on our bikes and ate a snack lunch. It was crowded here, and we didn't want to leave our belongings unattended.

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Great Falls of the Potomac River


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Great Falls - Gonna need a canal to get past this part


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C&O Canal around the Great Falls

Also at Great Falls Park, we came across a dying (not dead) raccoon laying across a hiking trail. The NPS, for whatever reason, had dealt with the situation by placing a couple of cones by the raccoon and posting a small sign. Wow, is that the best you can do? We'd ridden by the other end of this loop hiking trail a few minutes earlier, and there was no warning posted for people hiking in the opposite direction.

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Note the dying raccoon in the background

We'd seen quite a bit of wildlife on the trip – waterfowl, deer, turtles, the above-mentioned raccoon – but not until we were approaching D.C. did we finally see a snake – a copperhead, no less – laying right in the middle of the very busy trail. Tom and I skidded to a stop while other bikers just whizzed on by, almost running over it. Tom wanted to kick the snake off the trail to safety, while I wanted him to back away. He settled for a quick photograph before moving on.

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Copperhead on the trail

The Potomac River was widening near its mouth, and we could hear, but not see, the city traffic. Then suddenly the view opened up, and there was the Washington Monument. Wow!

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Lower Potomac


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Almost there!


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Washington, D.C.

Almost at the end, the trail grows confusing. We had to cross a steel footbridge at mile 0.9, bike along a very narrow trail, and then wind our way through gentrified Georgetown, across city streets, and even through a restaurant's outdoor seating. The restaurant patrons seemed used to this and didn't give us a second glance.

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Locking through Georgetown

Finally, the C&O Towpath joins with the Rock Creek Trail before then veering off toward Thompson's Boat Center, behind which is found the official beginning of the C&O Canal at Mile 0, located at Tidewater Lock, also known as a “water gate." We arrived at Mile 0 at almost the same moment as a gentleman who had just completed our same journey, only on foot. There were photos and congratulations all around. Success!

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Tom and Jana at Mile Zero!


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Water gate of the C&O


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Watergate Office Complex

Tom's cousin Kelly picked us up in the boat center parking lot minutes later. She momentarily illegally parked while we quickly threw our bikes and gear into her van, then drove us to her and her husband Don's house in Bowie, Maryland, about half an hour away. Kelly and Don's daughter, Kirsten, was visiting over the weekend from Pittsburgh and prepared a variety of homemade gourmet pizzas, a proper post-biking feast!

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Cousin Kelly, Tom, and Jana

Lodging: Kelly and Don's house, Bowie, MD. Five-star review. I recommend it, if you can swing a reservation...

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Kelly and Kirsten - They ran a 5K while we biked


Continue to September 20, 2020

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