Friday, June 24, 2022
Arches National Park and Cisco, Utah

Arches National Park is now on a timed-entry system, due to over-popular demand. Originally, our reservation was for 1:00 p.m., but last night we were able to change it to 11:00 a.m. Still, it took 45 minutes to get past the entrance gate. Once inside, though, it was never crowded, which was nice.

Arches NP has the largest concentration of natural sandstone arches in the world, over 2,000 arches of at least 3 feet wide to spans as large as 306 feet. Why so many in this one area? Because they've got the right kind of sandstone and salt layers here - the kind that crack in parallel lines - and the rain comes in just the right amount to cause maximum erosion without just washing everything away.

Our first stop was at Balanced Rock, not an arch, but still a cool formation. We walked a short loop trail around the base of the rock, about a third of a mile.

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Arches National Park, Balanced Rock

At The Windows, we hiked to Turret Arch, South Window, and North Window. Very cool! Turret Arch is shaped kind of like making the “OK” sign with your fingers, and the two Windows look like a pair of spectacular spectacles.

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The Windows Section


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Jana and Tom at The Windows


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Turret Arch

Still in the Windows area, we next hiked to the Double Arch, where I then climbed to a high vantage point within the arch for a majestic view of what lay beyond. I'd forgotten that it's easier to go up than come down and had a little trouble retreating, but I wasn't the only one. I helped a young boy down, and then his mother took my bag while I awkwardly descended. Ha! With the two trails combined, we hiked 1.75 miles.

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Double Arch


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From Double Arch, looking toward Balanced Rock


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From Double Arch, looking toward The Windows


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Double Arch extreme close-up

Delicate Arch, as featured on Utah's license plates, is the most famous arch in the world. The Upper Delicate Arch Viewpoint offers the best view of the unlikely frestanding arch without hiking all the way to it, which would have been a blistering proposition in the midday heat. It was a steep .7 miles to the upper viewpoint, and we were quite satisfied with the view from there.

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Delicate Arch

The Fiery Furnace is a collection of stunning sandstone formations near the center of the park, named for its reddish hue. Skyline Arch, further along the main road, is one of the few major arches in the park that can be seen without a hike.

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La Sal Mountains and the Fiery Furnace


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Skyline Arch

The road ends at Devils Garden, where a path between high sandstone fins leads to Landscape Arch, North America's longest stone arch at 306 feet wide. It looks quite delicate. Somehow we had this majestic arch all to ourselves!

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Sandstone fins in Devils Garden


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Tom with Landscape Arch

On the way back to the trailhead, we took an easy side path to Pine Tree Arch and Tunnel Arch, which added another half mile, giving us 2.5 miles in all. It was well worth the effort for our final hike of the day, even in the blazing sun.

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Pine Tree Arch


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Tunnel Arch

We made one last stop on our way out of Arches NP, at Park Avenue. It would be nice to hike in this area if we ever make it back here.

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Park Avenue

From Arches, we took Scenic Highway 128 east, a pretty drive through a valley along the Colorado River. Just before getting on the interstate, we stopped by the almost-abandoned town of Cisco, Utah.

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Almost-abandoned town of Cisco, Utah

Cisco began in the 1880s as a watering stop for the Denver & Rio Grand Western Railroad. A saloon quickly followed, around which a town quickly sprang to life. When trains stopped using steam, they no longer needed water, and the D&RGW didn't stop there anymore. Cisco limped weakly along for years until I-70 was built, bypassing the town and putting the final nail in its coffin.

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Airbnb coming soon!

In 2015, Cisco was purchased by a 29-year-old woman who uses salvaged material in an attempt to transform the place into an artist colony. Sure, why not? But I wouldn't really call it revitalized...

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Artist enclave


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Showdown at the Cisco Corral

Cisco was our last stop in Utah. From there, we hit I-70 and rolled into Grand Junction, Colorado, just before dark. Glad we got that earlier entry time at Arches!

We had dinner at the Ale House, spicy meatloaf and a corned beef sandwich. Good food, but there was a surprise on our check of a 3 percent “kitchen surcharge” to supplement the wages of the kitchen staff. What'll they think of next?

Lodging: Clarion Inn, Grand Junction, Colorado. I got a good deal on a room with some Choice Hotel Points after finding the hotels in Grand Junction surprisingly expensive. It turns out that's because our visit happened to coincide with the yearly “Country Jam” nearby. Our king room was quite comfortable, and the hotel has all kinds of amenities: an Italian restaurant, indoor and outdoor pools and spas, a fitness center, an indoor recreation center, and a large complimentary breakfast buffet. Finally, some frills!


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