This morning, as we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast of cookies and coffee on the lanai, airbnb owner Marc came by for a chat. Marc's big pastime is to go out on the open ocean and fish from a kayak – deep water, huge predators, no life jacket. He says people go missing all the time, never to be seen again, eaten by whatever lurks below. Gives me the heebie-jeebies just thinking about it.
Kona Town Oasis airbnb
We're not in Tennessee anymore
The Kona Coast stretches along the relatively dry western side of the Big Island. This is the more touristy side of the island, but the volcanic interior and the rainier east, with its jungles and waterfalls, seemed more interesting, so we'd scheduled only a short amount of time on the Kona side.
Jeep Wrangler Sport 4x4
After breakfast, we drove toward the Captain Cook area. First stop: Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historic Site. (Say that three times fast.) “Pu'uhonua” means place of refuge.
Starting with some history...
...and some amazing views!
Ki'i (representations of Hawaiian gods)
Ki'i overlooking Keone'ele Cove
In the time of kapu (taboo), those breaking a kapu faced punishment by death. Your chance of survival was to make it to the coast and survive the long swim through the strong currents to the Pu'uhonua. If you made it, you could be absolved by a priest. This practice was in place in Hawaii for hundreds of years, ending in 1819.
Hale o Keawe royal mausoleum
Royal Grounds
'Ale'ale'a Heiau (temple)
Honaunau Bay
A scenic drive on Napo'opo'o Road led us to St. Benedict's Painted Church. Built in 1899, the cathedral is famous for its lavishly painted interior. The view from the church steps was one of my favorites on this side of the island.
St. Benedict's Painted Church
Pretty pastels
Father Damien, who served the lepers of Molokai
From the steps of the Painted Church
We continued north on mountain roads as far as Waimea, where we turned back south along the Kona Coast on the Hawaii Belt Road, which encircles the island. Late in the afternoon, we stopped at Manini'owali Beach on Kua Bay for a bit of beach life.
The Rainbow State
Tom on Manini'owali Beach
Jana wades in the Pacific
Dinner: Krua Thai Cuisine in Kailua-Kona, which we walked to from our airbnb. Drunken noodles with pork and pineapple curry with pork. Excellent!