Wednesday, November 19, 2025
Hilo area caves and waterfalls

Averaging over 10 feet of rain per year, falling over the course of 275 days, Hilo is the fourth-wettest city in the United States, (surpassed only by Whittier, Ketchikan, and Yakutat in Alaska). Mostly, the rain comes at night, but today it's forecast to rain all day long. Our plan: First, we'll explore a couple of caves. Then, we'll capitalize on the rainfall with a series of waterfalls.

At over two miles long, Kaumana Caves is one of the largest underground lava formations in Hawaii. In contrast to the lava tube in the national park, this cave system is long, wild, and unlit. Luckily, we had our headlamps, because a cell phone light would be woefully insufficient. The entry point is a steep concrete staircase that takes you to two cave openings. We started with the left side, where we made our way deep within the cave before Tom's headlamp started getting dim and we turned back. We didn't want to lose a light source deep within the cave!

Let the spelunking begin

Left-side cave entrance

After climbing down the rubble

Tom in the Kaumana Caves

Long, narrow passage

The right-side cave opening leads to the main section of the cave. A short ways in, you have to climb over a bunch of rockfall and then crab-walk under a low ledge before the passage opens up again. Tom wasn't into it with his dim light, but I continued on. After a few more minutes and a couple of climbing moves, I came to a section where you had to continue on your hands and knees. This is where my interest waned, so I turned around and met Tom back at the entrance. Cool cave!

Right-side cave entrance

Greenery at the cave mouth

Tom will wait here

Pe'e Pe'e Falls is a set of waterfalls plunging 80 feet over lava cliffs, surrounded by tropical rainforest. It's part of the 28-mile-long Wailuku River, the longest river in Hawaii. “Wailuku” as translated means “waters of destruction.” The view of the falls from the observation platform is pretty distant, but lots of people have drowned while venturing closer. I'll just look from afar.

Pe'e Pe'e Falls

Rainy day at the waterfall

Message received

Next stop, Rainbow Falls, a few miles further downstream on the Wailuku River. This gorgeous waterfall is also about 80 feet tall. No rainbow today in the pouring down rain. Despite the wet conditions, we took a short trail to see a small forest of enormous banyan trees.

Rainbow Falls

Raining even harder

Small Jana, big banyan

The rain became intermittent as we drove to 'Akaka Falls State Park, about half an hour north of Hilo. The park is home two waterfalls, the 100-foot Kahuna Falls and the 442-foot 'Akaka Falls. A short, paved loop of about half a mile takes you through a lush forest to overlooks of both waterfalls. We walked it counterclockwise, so we'd encounter 'Akaka Falls last. Thankfully, by the time we reached 'Akaka, the rain had stopped completely.

Somewhat obscured Kahuna Falls

442-foot 'Akaka Falls

Jana and Tom after the rain stopped

'Akaka Falls in action

On our way back to Hilo, we took a four-mile scenic route on Old Mamalahoa Highway. We actually drove it on the way to 'Akaka earlier as well, but it was raining and we couldn't see much, so we decided to do it again. Much better the second time!

Old Mamalahoa Highway, north of Hilo

Earlier, at PepeKo Discharge Creek, we saw (and smelled) an enormous dead wild pig bobbing in the current. It had to weigh at least 300 pounds. We stopped again to see if the pig was still there, but in the interim, it had been washed out to sea. Unfortunately, with all the bobbing, our photos weren't clear, but we still have our memories...

PepeKo Discharge Creek

Also along this scenic route, we hiked the Onomea Bay Trail, less than a mile round trip but very steep. The path led through lush rainforest with stunning ocean views to a small, rocky bay. A lot of nice scenery for such a short stroll.

Onomea Bay

Beachcombing

Too rough to swim

Jana on the Onomea Bay Trail

I was craving a burger tonight and chose Cronies Bar & Grill in downtown Hilo to satisfy my desire. It was an easy walk from our airbnb, but we had to pass by a LOT of homeless people to get there. Pretty sad, really, though I guess there are worse places to be homeless. Anyway, the burgers were outstanding, and they had Kona Lavaman Red Ale on tap. Nice!

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