Friday, May 12, 2000

The scenery as we sailed into Topolobampo was very beautiful - mountains, mostly silhouettes because of the low sun, and the town up on a hill. We didn’t stick around to visit the town though, as we have heard there’s not much to see there other than the view from the sea.

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Topolobampo from the ferry

We caught a crowded converted school bus into Los Mochis (45 minutes, 10 pesos) and ate at a super-cheap taco stand by the bus station. Los Mochis people are friendly, but the city itself is a disappointment.

Took a 2-hour bus to El Fuerte, arriving about noon. The movie on the bus used the word "Cajunes" in the subtitles. (Insert Beavis laugh here.) Lucky for us, the movies on buses in Mexico are usually in English.

El Fuerte is a bustling little place, sort of dusty but sort of charming in a way. Better than Los Mochis. Got a 400-peso room at the Hotel San Francisco, also mentioned in our "Moon Guide." It had a nice courtyard with lots of trees and birds, a cool paint job too.

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The courtyard at the Hotel San Francisco

We went to a restaurant for lunch that ended up being all mariscos (seafood). Jana had some sea bass she claimed was awesome. Met an American ex-pat from Wisconsin there who talked our ears off but gave us some useful bits of info for our trip. We then had to rush for me to find food before 2:00 siesta closed down the town.

After our siesta, we walked to the Río El Fuerte to catch yet another beautiful sunset. Jana got eaten alive by jejenes (no-see-ums) and had bites on her legs for nearly two weeks afterward. We ate supper and then went back to the hotel and arranged for a cab driver to pick us up at 8:00 a.m. for the train.

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Site of the no-see-um attack

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El Fuerte

Continue to day 5.

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