Friday, 3 June, 2011
Semi-Civilization: Talamati to Letaba Rest Camp
I got up at 6:20, went to the hide for sunrise, and then walked the
fence line. Monkeys and impala were the only movement besides my
own. Our relatively late start today was on purpose, so everyone
could rest a bit and we wouldn't have to rush as we packed the car
and left Talamati for the last time. Still, we all were up by 7:00
and headed out the gate at 8:20.
Vervet monkeys, early in
the morning
Our route: S145, S36, S39, Timbavati Picnic Spot, Sasol-Ratelpan
Hide, continuing S39, S89, S90 south to Bangu waterhole and then
north, S91, H1-5, S46, S94 to Letaba Rest Camp.
My favorite
ferns
Cape glossy
starling
Africa
Impala
Tons of game this morning, most of the usual suspects - elephants,
zebras, giraffes, buffalo, baboons, warthogs, kudus, impalas, and
other antelope - and a few newbies, such as the kori bustard, one
of the world's heaviest flying birds. Some say it is THE heaviest
flying bird, but I have no opinion. In any case, it was only
walking when we saw it.
A dazzle of
zebras
A journey of
giraffes
Kori
bustard
Sasol-Ratelpan Hide overlooks a waterhole on the Timbavati River
surrounded with lush vegetation, giraffes, enormous crocodiles, and
hippos.
Well-fed
crocodile
A bloat of hippos at
Ratelpan
Had there been any traffic, Tom might have caused an accident
swerving out of the way and slamming on the brakes when he spied a
chameleon crossing the road. It was certainly taking its sweet
time. Apparently, it was trying to mimic a leaf blowing in the
wind. I took photos, but you have to see Tom's video to
understand.
Flap-necked
chameleon
Stayin' Alive!
We took an unnamed loop off the S39 down to the almost dry
Timbavati River, near the Roodewal Bush Lodge, and were rewarded
with a striking pair of saddle-billed storks, the tallest of the
various storks.
Saddle-billed storks at
the Roodewal Waterhole
Just before we crossed the Oliphants River, a large cat crossed
right in front of our car. It moved so fast and was so unexpected
that it eluded not just our cameras, but also any positive
identification. Tom and I saw a lioness, but Linda saw a leopard.
We all agreed on one thing: Big Cat. It was out of sight so quickly
it was almost like a dream.
Oliphants
River
The N'wamanzi Lookout affords an expansive view over the Oliphants
River, where we saw elephants, hippos, crocs, buffalo, waterbucks,
impala, and a close-up view of vervet monkeys. You can alight from
your vehicle at your own risk, but you better guard your things. A
guy arriving right after us had his door open for only a second
before a monkey jumped in and stole his nuts!
Thieving
monkey
At 3:30 p.m. we arrived at Letaba Rest Camp, our home for the next two
nights. As we checked in, they immediately saw that Linda had not
yet paid her daily conservation fees, at which point they quickly
processed her credit card, and that was that. Fifth time's a
charm!
By the way, I checked Letaba's ATM during our stay, and it was out
of service, apparently its normal state. This was the only ATM we
came across in Kruger. Just a reminder that it's vital to carry
plenty of rand when visiting Kruger, as all petrol in South Africa
must be paid in cash, and there is no reliable source to replenish
your cash while you are in the park! (The exception is if you are
South African, in which case you may pay for petrol with a garage
card.)
Our second Kruger
camp
Nicely situated on the Letaba River, Letaba Rest Camp is one of the
largest camps in Kruger National Park. After the peace and solitude
of Talamati, I've been dreading coming here, but I admit it's a
lovely camp. Plus, we thought it would be good to break up our
self-catering nights with a couple of days at a camp with a
restaurant and a store where we could replenish our provisions.
The view of the river from camp is fantastic, and much wildlife can
be viewed at the river and even inside of the fence. We're in guest
cottage 109, which has two bedrooms with three beds each, two
bathrooms, a kitchen, large living room, and a large stoep
overlooking the river. It's very, very nice, and way more than we
need.
Our cottage at
Talamati
Cottage
stoep
We had a snack after check-in, then Tom and I spent sunset walking
along the path from our cottage to the restaurant at the far end of
camp, watching the elephants, hippos, kudus, and impala in the
river below. Inside the fence perimeter, we observed monkeys,
bushbucks, and guineafowl.
Waterbuck
Inside
Letaba
Tonight we ate in the restaurant. Linda had fish and chips, and Tom
and I split a bacon cheeseburger with chips and a one-person pizza
topped with venison wors (sausage), bacon, rump steak, onion, and
barbecue sauce, washed down with Castle beers. Very good.
Before dinner, we went into the shop, where we still could not
purchase the Kruger map and guidebook that we've been seeking and
that's allegedly available everywhere. I bought a few snack foods,
and Linda got some souvenirs.
