For the rest of our stay on Ometepe, we decided to rent a quad bike (ATV) and tour the island on our own. El Encanto arranged the rental for us, and it was delivered conveniently to our door. This particular quad was not in tiptop condition, but at $50 a day, it was below the going rate, and it would have to do.
The plan today is to circle Volcan Maderas on the quad, with a long stop along the way to hike to a waterfall. This is the wilder, lusher half of Ometepe Island, and the rough roads call for the ATV. After a couple of false starts waiting for the engine to warm up, we were on our way, Tom driving and Jana holding on tight.
Joe Cool on the quad
Roadside murals in Merida
A few miles beyond the village of Merida, we came to the entrance station for Cascada San Ramon. From there, it's 4 kilometers up the side of Volcan Maderas to the waterfall. If you have the right vehicle - and we did - you can drive the first 2 km to a small parking area before hiking the rest of the way. The trail was so steep, I thought I might slide off the back of the quad.
International symbol for bathroom?
Once we set out on foot, it was a tough but pretty trail through dense vegetation. Even with a head start, it's still quite a trek, the final portion of the hike turning into an exposed, steep scramble where we had to hug trees and grab onto roots.
Jana nears the top of the trail
Finally, we were rewarded with the sight of Cascada San Ramon flowing over dark, moss-covered rocks into a small pool of cool water. The day was sunny and hot, and we waded right in. We stayed at the waterfall long enough for a snack lunch before heading back down.
Cascada San Ramon
Tom cools off
From directly below
The return hike was much faster, and we were back to the quad in no time. Just before reaching the parking area, we came across a troop of monkeys just a few feet off the trail. The baby was adorable.
Howler monkey
Monkeying around
Little cutie
On the ride down, Tom suddenly announced the brakes were out. Uh-oh. Luckily, we almost immediately came to a less-steep section of trail, and Tom drove us into the grass, where friction stopped our momentum. The brakes had overheated and lost all pressure. After letting them cool for several minutes, we were good to go again. Scary!
Lake Nicaragua
For the rest of the day, we continued our circumnavigation of Volcan Maderas. This is one of the most remote parts of Nicaragua, where livestock roams free and outsiders are scarce. We passed by a couple of village schools as they were letting out, and the children waved and shouted “hola!” Enchanting.
Mama and baby
Rural Nicaragua
Iglesia Tichana
Road hazards
Late in the afternoon, the sky turned dark and foreboding, and a downpour seemed imminent. Then suddenly the clouds parted and Volcan Maderas emerged in all its glory. The wild side of Ometepe is one of the most beautiful places we've ever been, and we've been a lot of places.
The road around Maderas
Volcan Maderas
Final resting place with a view
Just after sunset, we parked the quad safely back at El Encanto and set out on foot to find some food. The hotel's owner was leaving at the same time and gave us a ride to the main road in his pickup. We had dinner at Casa Hotel Istian. The pollo in salsa jalapeno was outstanding. I could eat that sauce like soup!
Barbell-shaped Ometepe Island