Sunday, January 29, 2023
Ometepe Island to Granada

With the high winds the past few days, ferry service from Ometepe has been sporadic, but there was nothing to do about it but show up at the port and hope for the best. It was pouring down rain this morning but a tad less windy. Hopefully, that will be enough! A taxi picked us up at 8:00, in time to catch the 9:00 ferry. If it didn't run, we'd wait until one did.

The 9:00 ferry left just 20 minutes late. Hooray! The rain had diminished but the voyage was rough, and we were happy to arrive in San Jorge. After an annoying haggle, we caught a taxi to Rivas, where we then caught a chicken bus for the 2 1/2-hour ride to Granada. We then walked the final half mile to our hotel in the bright midday sun. It's warmer here than on the island.

Rivas bus terminal

On the chicken bus

Lodging: Hotel Real La Merced, Granada. Hotels in Nicaragua can be dirt cheap, but when you can get something really nice for a little more, why not? This hotel is quite grand, the nicest hotel in town, and we booked its nicest room, a junior suite, for just $73 per night, including tax. We have four nights here in the lap of luxury.

Hotel Real La Merced

The Hotel Real La Merced started as a private residence, until “the violence of the time” in the early '80s caused the then-owners to flee the country. The mansion sat empty and in disrepair for 30 years until 2012, when the current owners began renovations, preserving the Spanish colonial architecture but updating the rooms to modern standards. It finally opened its doors as a hotel in 2018.

The hotel's 18 guestrooms surround a shady central courtyard with a large and inviting swimming pool. A grand pink marble staircase leads to our room on the second floor.

Magnificent pink marble

Looking downward

Heart of the hotel

The room itself is large and comfortable, with high ceilings and beautiful antique furniture. It also has a private balcony with spectacular views of Volcan Mombacho to the south and the beautiful, centuries-old Iglesia La Merced directly across the street.

Junior suite

Clean and bright

Iglesia La Merced from our room

Volcan Mombacho from our balcony

We enjoyed the a/c for a while, then went for a late lunch at Sandbar. The chicken tacos were outstanding, and we washed them down with the ubiquitous Victoria while checking out the bright and interesting artwork.

Sandbar Bar and Grill

Tom at the bar

Beware the hypnotizing eyes!

Mmm...Shoney's

After lunch, we walked to Granada's Parque Central, a very pretty public square, shady and colorful. On one side of the park, drivers of horse-drawn carriages offered tours of historic Granada, but we were drawn directly to the park's bright yellow church.

Catedral de Granada in Parque Central

Park vendors

The yellow church is the Catedral de Granada, originally built in 1583 but destroyed numerous times since. The current version was completed in 1972. For a dollar, you can climb the bell tower and enjoy the view.

Plaza de la Independencia from the cathedral stairway

Lake Nicaragua from the cathedral

Inside the bell tower

Parque Central de Granada

With the sun no longer directly overhead, the temperature was quite pleasant as we sat on our balcony and watched the afternoon turn into evening.

Horse-drawn carriage passing by

Tom relaxes on the balcony

Later, we went for dinner at Eco Food and Drinks. The burgers and quesadillas were excellent, and they actually had a decent selection of beer. We tried the Mytos Kellerbier, Volcanika Dorada, and Macizo Black IPA. Finally, something interesting to drink!

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