Sunday, June 6, 2021
Coronado Trail Scenic Byway/US 191
Just one item on the itinerary today: Driving the Coronado Trail Scenic Byway, aka US 191, between Clifton and Springerville. As the sixth spur off of US 66, the road was originally known as US 666 - and popularly called “The Devil's Highway” - but people complained - and road signs kept disappearing - so eventually the name was changed.
At the southern end of the byway is the high-desert town of Clifton. In the early days of Clifton, the need was seen for a local jail, so one was constructed by tunneling into the side of a granite cliff. Legend has it that the man who built the jail celebrated by getting drunk and firing his gun into the air, at which point he was arrested and became the jail's first inmate.
Clifton Cliff Jail
Historic Chase Creek Street
View from Clifton
Leaving Clifton, the road passes through a rocky tunnel and emerges into the middle of the Morenci Mine, the largest copper mine in North America and the third largest in the world. There's an official mine overlook where you can pull over and admire the big hole.
Morenci Copper Mine
Largest copper mine in North America
Haul truck tire, 2 Janas tall
The Coronado Trail Byway, topping out at 9,383 feet, is one of the highest highways in Arizona. There are 460 curves in the 123 miles between Clifton and Springerville, with few guardrails and little to no shoulder along the steep cliffs. Some of the switchbacks were so tight, I could almost see my own taillights. Another great drive in the convertible!
Chase Creek Scenic Vista
HL Saddle Picnic Area
Blooming cholla
There are no services on the byway, so we'd loaded up on gas, food, and water before setting out. This is one of the least traveled federal highways, and after leaving the mine, we had the road to ourselves. You could probably drive it in three hours, but to do the journey justice, it takes all day.
Fire Interpretation Overlook
Along the Coronado Trail Byway
By the time we reached Blue Vista, toward the northern end of the byway, the view had become heavily obscured by smoke. When we reached our hotel, I was told that a big fire a couple of hours away had shut down US 60 between Globe and Superior, a route we took just three days ago.
Blue Vista, 9,200 feet
Lodging: Reed's Lodge, Springerville, Arizona. Our room was clean and comfortable. My only complaints were that we'd requested a king bed and only got a queen, and there were so few electrical outlets that I had to unplug the TV to charge my phone!
Old western-themed motel
We took a walk around little Springerville to stretch our legs and then picked up some burgers at Sonic. Going to the drive-in in a convertible was a classic '50s experience!
Rusty classic junkers
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