After a fantastic B&B breakfast, we headed south with passenger Tim loaded in the backseat. He was a super nice guy and turned out to be good company for the day. He was well traveled, so we had a lot to talk about.
Tom on the Carretera Austral
Roadside wreckage
The Carretera between Chaiten and Puyuhuapi is spectacular! We had to keep our stops short, though, because we were trying to get to Parque Nacional Queulat, south of Puyuhuapi, and the park closes at 4:30 p.m. If you arrive at the entrance after 2:30, they won't even let you in. We had to visit today, Sunday, because the national park is closed on Mondays. Luckily, this section of road is paved, so we made good time.
Jana and the Southern Patagonian Ice Field
Jagged peaks
Mirador Rio Frio
Tom and Jana along the Rio Palena
The Ventisquero Colgante entrance to Parque Nacional Queulat is 21 km beyond Puyuhuapi. The main attraction here is the park's hanging glacier, and there are basically two activities: (1) hike the Sendero Mirador del Ventisquero to view the glacier from above, a steep, somewhat strenuous trek which takes two to three hours; and (2) hike the Sendero Laguna Tempanos, an easy 15-minute walk to a lagoon with a good view of the glacier, with an optional 45-minute boat ride toward the hanging glacier's base.
Queulat National Park
Long footbridge over the Rio Ventisquero
Rio Ventisquero
It was 1:30 by the time we arrived at the park, and we didn't have time to do both activities. We had no trouble choosing the short walk to the lagoon and then the boat ride. The boat is first come, first serve, and costs 15,000 CLP each, cash only. It was only a short wait to board a boat. The ride in the 10-passenger inflatable motorboat went about 3 ½ miles round trip and lasted 45 minutes. We approached close enough to the glacier to feel the cold breeze coming off its surface. What luck to visit on such a pretty day! It rains here frequently.
Boating on Laguna Tempanos
Ventisquero Colgante aka Hanging Glacier
Back in Puyuhuapi (pop. 900), we checked in to our apartment at Departamento Rossbach. At $107, it was one of our more expensive stays, but we decided to go for it because it had a washer and dryer. Worth it! The room was awesome, and we had our own private deck with a spectacular view. In the morning, we were served a wonderful breakfast – a bonus not even mentioned on our reservation.
Tom in Puyuhuapi
Departamento Rossbach, nice room!
Beer on the deck
View from our room
Another night here would have been great, both in this room and this beautiful area. In particular, kayaking on the Puyuhuapi Fjord would have been nice (but only in fair weather). The town of Puyuhuapi is very small, but even on Sunday, there were at least three open restaurants.
Outside the apartment
Hanging around Puyuhuapi
Mileage: 228 km