Today, we drove east from Puerto Guadal to the town of Chile Chico, on the Chile-Argentina border. We'd been really lucky with the weather during our trip thus far, but less so today. It rained most of the morning, during what turned out to be a rough and hazardous drive.
An hour outside Puerto Guadal, we received an alert of low tire pressure (a different tire than previously repaired). Oh, no! The tiny town of Mallin Grande was a few kilometers ahead, but when we arrived in the pouring rain, we learned there was no tire repair shop there. We could either return to Puerto Guadal or continue to Chile Chico, still 80 km away. The tire looked okay and we had a spare, so we continued on. The road only got worse after that, with lots of hairpin turns above dangerous precipices and no place to pull over. Luckily, the leak was again a slow one.
The road to Chile Chico follows the southern shore of Lago General Carrera, winding high above the lake, beneath glacier-topped mountains. On a sunny day, the views of the lake are said to be breathtaking. Unfortunately, we couldn't see much due to the rain and low-hanging clouds. Eventually, we crossed over a mountain pass and drove out of the rain. It's a much drier climate on the east side of the ridge. We'd missed about three hours of scenery, but there were still plenty of great views to be had.
Over the ridge and out of the rain
Tom on the road to Chile Chico
Estero Laguna Bonita
Lago General Carrera
Amazing view
Mirador courtesy of a mining company
Laguna Verde
Arriving in Chile Chico (pop. 5,500), we could finally deal with the tire. The first gomeria we found was closed for siesta, so we drove to the Copec gas station to inquire. They don't fix tires there, but a helpful man called someone who does. Not ten minutes later, a mechanic showed up along with a young English-speaking guy named Angel. We followed them to back to the mechanic's shop, where he quickly found a nail in our problem tire, plugged the hole, and had us on our way. The cost was just 8,000 CLP, or about $9 – including an escort to the gomeria and an English interpreter. Wow!
Mirador de Las Banderas, Chile Chico
Lago General Carrera
Ferry parking
We'd planned a 5-mile hike for this afternoon in the Jeinimini sector of Parque Nacional Patagonia, but with the delay from the tire, it seemed a bit ambitious, especially since it would require another 60 km of driving on rough gravel roads. Plus, it was VERY windy – 30 mph sustained winds with 45 mph gusts. The blowing dust of the Patagonian steppe would have made a long hike unpleasant.
Jana and the Blustery Day
Tom and a Tehuelche hunter
As an alternative, Angel had suggested a short hike up nearby Cerro de Indio and also stopping by the Casa de La Cultura, a small local museum where he works. We did both those things, plus explored Chile Chico's waterfront, central plaza, and the main drag through town.
Cerro de Indio
Tom in the entrance of Cueva del Indio
View from the hill
Inside Casa de La Cultura
We spent the night at Costanera Apart in a very nice, new apartment with a fabulous view of the lake. This would be our fourth and final night on the shore of Lago General Carrera. We took another walk through Chile Chico after dark.
Tonight's very nice apartment
View from our room
Windy whitecaps
Chile Chico after dark
Casa de La Cultura
Wildlife note: Shortly after leaving Puerto Guadal this morning, we spotted a tiny deer running alongside the road, maybe 12 to 15 inches tall and weighing no more than 15 pounds. It was a pudu, the world's smallest species of deer. Crazy little! Unfortunately, no photo.
Mileage: 117 hard km