Today's destination was Hornopiren, only 125 km by the most direct route, but we had something more interesting in mind.
It was a mostly clear morning, and the views across Lago Llanquihue toward Volcan Osorno were stunning as we drove east along the lake's southern shore. We couldn't have asked for more perfect weather.
Volcan Osorno
Iglesia Rio Pescado
We followed the lake as far as Ensenada, where we turned south toward Cochamo, Puelo, and Caleta Puelche. The further we drove, the more winding, narrow, and treacherous the road became, bordered by sheer cliffs and twisting around blind corners. At a certain point, the pavement ended and a gravel track began that in many places was only wide enough for one vehicle. What fun! And the views were beautiful!
Rio Petrohue
Reloncavi Estuary
South of Cochamo
Just beyond Caleta Puelche, we had to choose between a paved, direct route across the Hualaihue Peninsula to Hornopiren or a mostly gravel, longer route along the coast. The coast it is! The coastal road added a little time and distance, but it was mostly flat and well graded, and the payoff was huge. The route was interesting and gorgeous.
Comuna Aulen waterfront
Comunidad de Quidaco Bajo Chapel
Afternoon diversion: Cerveceria Biloche, essentially a nano-brewery in a shed in the middle of nowhere. Brewer Luis makes three styles of beer – porter, amber, and golden – available in half-liter bottles for 2,500 CLP each (about $2.75). We bought two ambers and two porters to go. Unfortunately, when we later opened them, one had turned sour, but the other three were very nice, and we had a lot of fun chatting with Luis and seeing his setup.
Craft brewery Biloche, off the beaten track
Inside the brew shed
Brew with a view
We stopped at several scenic spots along the coast and at one point were lucky enough to spot a pod of dolphins. We watched them swim along in a bay, surfacing and submerging, for a long time.
Abandoned boats on the Gulf of Ancud
Black-faced ibis
Dolphins!
A little after 5:00, we rolled into Hornopiren (pop. 5,000) and checked in to our lodging, Cabañas Rubles, right next to the ferry dock where we'll be catching a ride tomorrow morning. Clean and convenient, but not one of the nicer places we stayed.
Steps from our cabaña in Hornopiren
We then drove a few kilometers outside of Hornopiren to Puente Rio Blanco. As we were admiring the fast-flowing river coming down from the snow-capped mountains, along came some rafters. We watched as the raft passed beneath the bridge and turned to see it emerge from the other side, but when it came back into view a moment later, it was empty! Luckily, the guide managed to quickly right the raft, and after a short struggle in the icy water, everyone made it back on board. Whew!
Rafters on the Rio Blanco
Oopsy!
Jana and Tom at Puente Rio Blanco
Back in Hornopiren, we walked to the Plaza de Armas and happened upon an excellent restaurant, Quelen Austral. We had carne estofada and milanesa napolitana. It was one of the best meals of our trip.
Rio Cuchildeo
Parroquia Sagrada Familia
Plaza de Armas de Hornopiren
Mileage: 270 km