Lago General Carrera is the second largest lake in South America (after Lake Titicaca) and straddles the border of Chile and Argentina. In Argentina, the lake is known as Lago Buenos Aires, and its indigenous name is Chelenko, meaning “stormy waters.” It has an area of 710 square miles and is almost 2,000 feet deep.
Lago General Carrera aka Lago Buenos Aires aka Chelenko
Second largest lake in South America
A popular attraction on this part of the lake is the Cuevas de Marmol, or Marble Caves, which can only be visited by boat. Most of the boat tours leave from Puerto Rio Tranquilo, but since we had a car, we drove on to Bahia Mansa, 6 km further south, which is closer to the caves and hence a less expensive from which to begin a tour. From Bahia Mansa, the cost was 18,000 CLP each with a minimum of five people, no reservation necessary. There was no one else waiting when we arrived, but within half an hour, the boat was full.
Tom awaits our tour in Bahia Mansa
We rode out into the lake on the ominously named Poseidon II with Captain Johnny and Guide Victoria. From Bahia Mansa, it was only 10 minutes to the first set of caves, a few of which the boat actually entered. Victoria explained that this is “young” marble, only 100 million years old. The marble is brittle, so it can't be used for anything, but it certainly erodes beautifully in the wave action of the lake.
Cuevas de Marmol
100-million-year-old marble
Interestingly eroded
Inside the marble caverns
Then Johnny took us over to the area's most famous formations, the Capillas de Marmol and the Catedral de Marmol (Marble Chapels and Marble Cathedral). The swirling blues of the cavern walls are in part a reflection of lake's vivid turquoise, and the colors can vary in intensity depending on the water level and lighting. Wow!
Capillas de Marmol
Close to the Capillas
Colorful caverns
Stupendous swirls
Catedral de Marmol
The boat tour lasted about an hour, then we were again on our way. We only had about 50 km more to drive today, so we took our sweet time, making numerous stops to admire the stunning vistas.
Mirador Lago General Carrera
Impossibly blue
Along the Carretera Austral
Puente General Carrera is a handsome bridge over an outlet emptying Lago General Carrera into Lago Bertrand. From Lago Bertrand, the waters flow into Rio Baker, which in turn empties into the Pacific Ocean. What a beautiful place!
Puente General Carrera
Another intrepid bikepacker
Lago General Carrera
Lago Bertrand
We'd reserved two nights at Cabañas El Maiten in Puerto Guadal (pop. 600), a little town 10 km off the Carretera Austral on the road to Chile Chico. It was a huge, comfortable, nicely furnished cabaña that would easily have slept five. We had a nice view of Lago General Carrera, and there was a small park with a pier just a few steps away. The cost? $60 per night. Bargain!
Cabañas El Maiten, Puerto Guadal
Two-night stay
Just steps from our cabaña
For the most part, the food in Chile and Argentina was good but repetitive – a big chunk of beef, with an occasional chunk of chicken thrown in for variety, and usually served with fries, but tonight was a flavorful exception. At Restaurante El Lengal, we were served chicken in morel sauce and beef in a different type of sauce, with fries (of course), rolls, and even a salad. Exceptional!
Iglesia Puerto Guadal
Clinton, Tennessee 9,300 km
No reasonable offer refused
Mileage: 103 km